Language is an undeniably powerful tool. It’s how we communicate and express ourselves. It shapes how we think and feel, and on the flip side even reveals our thought patterns, values, priorities, and identities in subtle but impressive ways.
Through the climbing lens, there are lots of ways in which we can either self-sabotage or self-advance with our word choice. Chances are, these even bleed into other aspects of your life. I promise you it affects the people around you as well.
So, here are 5 unhelpful phrases we commonly hear at the gym or crag. Let’s unpack them and explore some alternatives.
1. “I can’t do it.”
We’ve all said this. The truth is, maybe there are some instances in which it is accurate. But when it’s the first and most consistent thing that comes out of your mouth every time you are struggling to stick a move or send a route, that’s highly problematic.
Have you heard the phrase “self-fulfilling prophecy?” Also known as the Pygmalion Effect (as it applies to our expectations of others), this is a psychological phenomenon in which our beliefs influence our behaviors, which subsequently impact and reinforce our beliefs, which again drive our behaviors. It’s a pretty powerful positive feedback loop. So if your belief is that you can’t do it, you probably won’t. Check out this video for a quick explanation on self-fulfilling prophecy.
Try this instead: “I haven’t done it yet.”
You probably can’t tell the future, so adding that “yet” leaves the door open for progress and change. If you are a chronic user of this phrase, replace the “can’t” with “haven’t” so that your brain doesn’t even have the chance to misinterpret your message.
2. “That hold is terrible.”
The reason this phrase is unhelpful is similar to the “I can’t do it” statement above, but there’s another layer here too. When you describe holds with concrete words like “terrible,” you are not only convincing your brain that it is difficult to hold onto, you’re focusing on the problem rather than the solution. What do you need to do to optimize that hold?
Try this instead: “That hold is slopey. I’ll have to stay low and keep my hips close to the wall.”
By rephrasing in this way, you are focusing on solving the problem. And sending routes is all about aligning solutions. If you’ve convinced yourself that the hold is terrible, then you will believe that you will struggle with the move, which is likely to cause you to overgrip or even just give up and not try as hard. It’s pretty clear that this would be unhelpful in your endeavors to do the rock climb.
3. “That move is too reachy.”
This one is, obviously, most commonly used by shorter climbers. There are some cases in which this is accurate (I use the term “morpho” here instead), but more often than not, the issue is not that the climb is reachy. The issue is that you are lacking some skill, strength, or power to pull the moves. It is truly quite rare that you will come across a move that is impossible due to your height. Yes, sometimes the moves will be harder for you than your partner that is 7 inches taller, but that doesn’t mean it’s “too reachy.”
Try this instead: “I really need to stand hard on that move and be more dynamic.”
Again, we want to keep things solution focused here. So, when you find yourself wanting to exclaim about your vertical challenge, change your language and try these actions instead:
- Look for higher feet.
- Search for intermediate handholds.
- Jump or be dynamic.
- Get creative with your sequence.
I could go on about this for way too long, so it will be another blog post at some point. If you need some short climber inspiration, check out this film of Michaela Kiersch on The Golden Ticket.
4. “That climb is stupid.”
This is one of my favorites. As a routesetter and youth coach in a commercial facility, I’ve heard this almost as many times as the reachy comment. I almost always respond with “Is it stupid because you can’t do it?” To which the answer is always a begrudging yes.
So, with this one, you really need to question why you think the climb is “stupid.” Does it demand a lot of technique and finnicky body positioning that makes you feel clumsy or uncoordinated? Did someone you perceive to be weaker than you just gracefully walk up it? In asking these sorts of questions, you’ll find the answer for how to rephrase.
Try this instead: “That felt weird. This climb must have something to teach me about body positioning.”
This comment is so frequently related to ego. Try to get honest with yourself about it. Ask yourself why it is that you feel so entitled to climb the route with minimal effort. I know entitled is a strong word to use here. That’s kind of the point.
5. “This climb is so sandbagged.”
There is so much talk about grades these days. It’s really not all that interesting. Let’s just stop it. They’re useful for tracking progress over time and as a guideline, but if your primary instinct when you come down from trying a route for the first time is to comment on its grade, your focus is in the wrong place.
Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing has a great article about this in his book The Hard Truth. I could rant on this topic forever, so I’ll just leave you with this quote from Kris that is 1000% factual.
“When you do a rock climb and log it on your 8a, no matter what grade you give it, or what grade the guidebook gives it, the difficulty of said rock climb does not change. It’s exactly the same amount of challenging for you no matter what number you, or anyone else, attaches to it.“
Just be honest with yourself about how challenging the climb is for you.
Try this instead: Comment on literally anything else about the climb.
Look, we all talk grades sometimes. It’s fine. Just don’t let it be your primary and most consistent topic of conversation. Learn to get genuinely excited about routes you think are hard for the grade. They’re probably filling some gap in your skill at that level. They’ll make you better if you can set aside your ego. And ultimately, these routes are usually more satisfying to complete because you have to earn it far more than your “hardest” redpoint that suited your style perfectly.
Moving Forward
We all are going to have days when these things come out of our mouths or rattle around our brains; when our egos are flared up and we get frustrated. That is a totally normal and genuinely human experience. But keep in mind that awareness is just as powerful a tool as language. If these phrases are dominating narratives for you, give them a little extra love and attention. You don’t need to change your mindset first. It’s okay if your rephrasing feels disingenuine initially. Use it enough and it will shape your outlook over time for better and less stressful climbing.